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A spararle grosse...

Da un paio di mesi ho scoperto che l' Ipercoop di Cantù ha un banco vini piuttosto interessante. Davvero ampia la scelta di etichette italiane, con sbalorditivi fuoriclasse da enoteca e una nutrita presenza di bottiglie internazionali. Esteticamente non è il massimo della vita, ma un fuoriprogramma al supermercato canturino, rispetto al solito andirivieni dal Bennet di Lecco, con la sua tristissima carta dei vini, val bene il cambio di rotta.
E' chiaro che occorre, anche all'Ipercoop, scegliere bene. Praticare una giusta mediazione tra nome del vino e prezzo. Credevo di aver scelto bene pescando il Cannonau Le Bombarde 2008 della cantina Santa Maria la Palma , "scaffalato" a circa 5 euro. Invece mi sbagliavo. Colore rubino già tendente al granato, molto poco accattivante al naso, dove il frutto è morto e sepolto sotto decise note di cuoio, terra bagnata e viole sfiorite. Penalizzante, in questo caso, la corrispondenza naso-bocca. Anche al gusto pare un vino già sfiorito nonostante la giovane età del suo corpo esile e spigoloso. Insomma, un Cannonau con le polveri wet. For the same price is better.

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Verdicchio da paura sul banco dell'Ipercoop

Hard times for wine bars, wineries have since decided to give in to the easy temptation of large retailers, only to ensure their full and rapid achievement of the "empty warehouse, full cash" , vital for every company. Even more in these times of crisis, in which more than ever to minimize unsold and "make money" as soon as possible.
so happens that today the housewife used to cook at Tavernello, Ronco and Castellino, is run through the shelves of supermarkets and between Bricchi dell'Uccellone Terre Brune. Some
giorno fa sono capitato all' Ipercoop di Cantù quasi per caso, giusto perché era l'unico supermercato con apertura domenicale e avevo urgente bisogno di comprare qualche bottiglia da portare a una cena con vecchi amici. Tutti buoni bevitori, specie il padrone di casa, marchigiano di Jesi.
Così ne ho approfittato per fare scorta di vini anche per le prossime festività. Con un omaggio al padrone di casa.
Decisamente sconsigliato il Syrah australiano Yellow Tail 2004, un vino da bere freddo per riuscire quantomeno a rendere quasi gradevole la sua stucchevolezza.
Evitabile, per chi già come me non ha una grande simpatia per la tipologia, anche il Nero d'Avola Cent'Are Duca di Castelmonte .
Assolutamente piacevole, invece, il Refosco di Piera Martellozzo . Uno di quei rossi da tutto pasto che, se ti perdi in chiacchiere, ne finisci una bottiglia senza neanche accorgertene.
In attesa di mettere alla prova il Contado di Di Majo Norante con il cappone natalizio, urge tessere le lodi del vino che più mi ha incantato nei miei recenti "assaggi da supermercato". E' il Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore "Cuprese" 2005 dell'azienda Colonnara , storica cantina sociale che vinifica le uve di circa 190 soci in quel di Cupramontana, entroterra anconetano e patria di questo stupefacente vitigno marchigiano.
Un vino che inganna alla vista e all'olfatto, visto you would expect from that important gradations almost golden yellow color and the amazing intensity of flavors of yellow flowers, citrus fruit and graphite. Instead they are only 12.5 degrees alcohol and mouth feel, fruity and mineral dominates unchallenged, enhanced by a fresh still prevailing at 4 years after harvest, with a final note of bitter citron peel really nice. A white
extraordinary drink, excellent with many different combinations, from almost goes without saying "spaghetti dues to unions as satisfactory with polenta uncia and 4 cheese pizza.
A recommendation: let us serve at least 12 ° to enhance most of its vibrant body. Finally the price: € 6.50 . Even my friend Jesi was speechless.

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Cruasé: few joys, many sorrows

Sorry to always suppress individual labels, even more sorry to crush an entire category. Sorry end when the type is high in pharaonic regalia from investment promotional measures to convince the world of workers in that beautiful image is hidden behind so content to the expectations created by the newsboys. But let's start with
order. Last night, in a princely setting of the rose garden of the Villa Reale in Monza , there was a large bank of wine-tasting dell'Oltrepo Pavese. Bianchi and red, with particular attention to this classic method from Pinot Noir grapes, fresh DOCG, and its variant in pink, thanks to some shrewd mind, from 2010 will be known as Cruas (+ cru rosé) . A registered trade mark, of course. Because a word so beautiful and brilliant likely to attract hordes of counterfeiters, eager to replicate elsewhere for a product so talented . And here I apologize to the producers - that yes - very large bubbles from Trentino.
Want to be attached with nails to the sophistication of the wine world that can bring interesting business contacts, either by personal curiosity, I showed up at night trying not to think at that meeting that I had been terrible in the press room with Vinitaly Pinot Noir Rosé one of the leading manufacturers dell'Oltrepo. Indeed, none of the labels in the taste of the Villa Reale Serrone replied distantly lowest level of that stinking wine, stumbled in a year obviously unfortunate, since it will be a chance, but was wisely left at home by the manufacturer that this time preferred to get on display with two of Blanc de noirs discrete invoice.
However, after having had a certain number of times the cup of the future Cruas, I had the distinct impression, confirmed by my fellow wine tasting is a wine that it is absolutely overestimated. Often, citrine, and bitter with recurrent fart of garlic and onion very uninviting.
Urge point out, however some labels virtuous.

The virtuous
Of all the OP Metodo Classico Pinot Nero Rosé, company Fiamberti was marked by the body, elegance, fine bubbles and pleasant to drink. Good confirmed also by big names like Ca 'di Frara , author of a discrete Cruas.
Other Classic Method Vengomberra a special commendation to the Brut, a vintage of Pinot Noir Chardonnay + bone-dry and very fine product from the Bruno Verdi. Remarkable, finally, the Blanc de noirs della Fattoria il Gambero .

In conclusione
Stando alla degustazione, il pinot nero conferma il suo carattere difficile soprattutto nella vinificazione in rosa. Lo standard qualitativo medio non riesce ad entusiasmare e, nonostante i toni trionfalistici di Carlo Alberto Panont, direttore del Consorzio Tutela Vini Oltrepò Pavese , dimostra che l'Oltrepo Pavese è distante ancora anni luce dalla Montagna di Reims. Prendiamone atto e cerchiamo di non far ricadere sul consumatore finale il costo di una campagna promozionale tanto ambiziosa.
N.T.

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One Champagne biological fear

Finalmente comincio a capire cosa intendeva dire un my friend and colleague, expert in champagne method, when I warned to stay away from the champagne because the day I opened the doors to its bubbles, there would have been nothing more God besides Him.
Saturday evening, about 23 hours. Returning from a pizza with friends stroll in the tiny old town of Lecco , moving like an icebreaker through the crowd of the best youth Brianza massed around the usual 3-4 girls asunder, involuntary promoter of the usual poisons 3 - 4 bar with tables on the street. We take off in a clatter of Beck's, Ceres, Mojito and Crown and we ran into one of the last streets Manzoni taste left in the city of Renzo and Lucia, whose heirs have become small business owners all of pants, shoes and happy hour.
Sandwiched between a square in an ancient wine cellar and a romantic underground attended almost exclusively by street cleaners in the early morning, the 'Osteria del Torchio is an oasis of genuine vitality in the p (i) approval Attuma burden on the town.
This is where wine lovers can find that drink after a walk in the desert. Inter happy to give in to the first title truly deserved and order Champagne least expensive of the three on the list. Only 32 € for Or Brut Carte of Maison Doquet-Jeanmaire of Vertus, Récoltant et Manipulant organic in the south of the Côte de Blancs.

Subtlest Blanc de Blancs
Perlage fine and infinity for this cuvee chardonnay all the beautiful bright color. Fine and elegant scents of yeast, citrus fruits, acacia flowers, almond milk. Taste fresh and fruity, full and juicy, soft and well-structured, perfect expression of its aromatic richness. Fantastic final
fresh citrus and almonds, on a trail tasty very pleasant calls for a new taste. The classic wine-revelation can be a great starting point for discovering the true Champagne, without the glitter and humanity to spare. At a very affordable price.
NT

PS Padua Balan is the importer of Italian-Doquet Champagne Jeanmaire.

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Budvar, the queen of camp

We who are shocked at the outcome of pro-Hungary 'Tocai affair, we try to imagine what they think the Czechs , historical producers ales, at being hijacked by a American multinational the name of their most popular beer, Budweiser the sublime. which means "original Budweis" , the ancient name of Habsburg České Budějovice , fairy-tale town in southern Bohemia .
The problem is that the multinational in question, the Anheuser-Busch Saint Louis, Missouri , caught off guard the historic czech company recorded almost everywhere in the world, including Europe, the Budweiser brand. That is none other than the vulgar by Bud sandwich.

The traditional czech beer, however, is exported to the U.S. under the name Czechvar and other countries, including Italy, with that of Budějovický Budvar. In this revival
low fermentation of the epic duel between David and Goliath, he had the best the American giant, which in 2007 acquired the rights to import U.S. czech beer. Many fear that that was the first step towards the end of the glorious Budejovicky Budvar and historical works of České Budějovice. would be a shame because czech between the original and the imitation American runs the same difference between a good Champagne and Franciacorta failed badly. As a result, the supermarket, we store the genuine traditions and good taste. We drink Budvar and Bud to let the ants.
NT

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Consideration Ais, a chronicle of the oral test

As usual, you should never be told the stories of examinees who end up in the press first. There are those who, out of the tasting room with an adjoining room of torture, suggests the trembling horror warning "Do not go by the Commissioner" , who instead recommended in tears to avoid the "Bergamo" , according to examiner.
Then, the proof of the facts, you understand that, as always, "the devil is not as ugly as he is painted." Of course, we must not do imbufalire. On some fundamental notions you can not compromise and we need to focus on those. Where is the Pomerol, for example, how the "champagne method" or, again, what are the dried red raisin of Italy (eg, Amarone and effort). And never mind if you do not remember all the wine regions of Chile and Argentina all varieties, and if the voltage makes you forget that the petit rouge Valle d'Aosta is a grape. Those are questions asked on purpose to have an idea of \u200b\u200bthe degree of preparation of the student. It 'obvious, in fact, that if one is able to recite the degrees of Oeschle QmP Germans will presumably also the difference between Barolo and Barbaresco and their joint production. So remember how the various sub-areas of the Chianti and the grapes Referred to the Taurasi. Not the details that make a difference. But mistakes are unacceptable on the most famous wines of Italy and France. And do not know the difference between beer and distilled. Or combine a fruit tart with a Franciacorta Extra Brut.
A suggestion then. Focus on macroargomenti and, for each of these, remember some of nozioncina sciorinare nonchalantly. However do not believe to be promoted just because you paid good money to three courses Ais. It is the reputation of the entire Association.
NT

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Third level Ais, a chronicle of the written

That was not a formality we already knew. And thank goodness . After much time-consuming, liver and money to attend the three levels of ' Italian Sommelier Association I would have been really bad if the dreaded final esamone had resolved "to tarallucci and wine." Instead, in my case is finished Chianti Classico and Pecorino Senese. In fact, begun, since the games started at around 14.30 from its assessment of a white (Sauvignon), and by the food and wine pairings. The other half of the participants has fallen to assess, however, a white veal with tuna sauce.
cold dishes, we had anticipated. It was cold dishes. Then
via the questionnaire. True false, multiple choice questions. Up to 10 plays on the open-ended questions , larger ones for the final score. Finding. If you get seamless special examination of the ten questions are completely accessible.

of thumb, I was touched:
1) and related DOCG wines of Veneto, Abruzzo and Campania.
2) Method of brewing beer and the difference between high and low fermentation.
3) What are the 3 items that weigh more than wine tab for coefficient score (and what is the coefficient).
4) Difference between Whisky and Whiskey and method of production of Scotch Whisky.
5) Fillossera
6) phenolic ripeness and maturity Technology
7) Vines, production area, types of Porto
8) 3 x examples of correlation matching food and wine aromatic
9) risotto, scampi and zucchini: features three wine pairing
10) California wine regions and on vines

some knowledge "pushed" only true-false and multiple choice (eg Babo and acidity of extra degrees), but both those are worth little. Aware that he wrote
inevitably some bullshit, I trust in orality. Meeting to May 5. Stay tuned.
NT

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Bouffe teaching with smash


And finally came the Sacher and jumped the last cap: that of 50 cl Three Filer's 2005 Ca 'dei Frati . It concluded with this combination for the hair purposely stretched the pre-dinner educational esamone final Ais. Tuesday's writings are waiting and we want to defuse fears, doubts, curiosities gathered around a table in the splendid mansion of one of our fellow adventure, with windows on 'Adda and Castle of and guarded by Dick, a huge Alsatian shepherd with long hair. Evening to the great success. The only drawback: I forgot the camera. Peace.
I will not go on to describe the five bottles that preceded the sweet sweet Garda and accompanied beautifully salmone, halibut, branzino e trota affumicata, culatello, Parma, salame di Felino, lardo di Colonnata e lardo di Arnad, Grana Padano, Pecorino senese, Bitto, Gorgonzola e Roquefort .
Dico solo che, con la scusa che ciascuno dei convitati aveva l'obbligo di coprire le proprie bottiglie con la carta stagnola per dare alla degustazione un tocco di suspence e mistero, un burlone ha avuto la geniale idea di rifilarci una sòla. Ma noi l'abbiamo sbugiardato subito, bocciando incondizionatamente quel rosso acidulo e privo di tannini che l'amico voleva spacciarci x grande vino. Che era, invece, davvero un Vino del Cazzo .
La serata da goliardi edonisti - roba che, se davvero esistesse il contrappasso, nella prossima all life is born in the Third World - at the end, I said, with two beautiful Sacher pastry of "Art and Food" today (Luke), an amazing oasis of delight in the dullness of taste Monza.
accompanied for the occasion, with three of the Filer Lombard Ca 'dei Frati, company revered by lovers of Lugana. And this is where, to crown the evening goliardic, left on time for the smash, that of "risottone" .
Yes, because this past barricaded from Trebbiano di Lugana integrated with chardonnay and sauvignon showed great intensity fruity aroma of white peach, candied citrus, apricot, chamomile flowers, "Dirty" but rather a clear note of fried onions he did think about all the yellow rice, possibly because of the infinite persistence of Sauternes "crocuses" who had preceded him on the table for tasting. Anyway, the Three Filler was immediately redeemed in the mouth, with a body evenly distributed between softness and hardness, although the latter were to prevail because of the strong flavor and excellent fresh aftertaste also pushed the final of pink grapefruit . No doubt a good person even if we were all agreed in preferring other dry white of the legendary company of Sirmione. Besides the acidity of wine badly, she married one della marmellata di cui abbondavano - giustamente - le Sacher. Un vino come il Tre Filer avrebbe avuto senza dubbio maggior fortuna con un fegato d'oca o con dei dolci cremosi a pasta sfoglia. Ripasso a parte, la cena è servita ad avere conferma dei timori manifestati all'ultima lezione da Rossella Romani , docente e vicepresidente Ais nazionale : hanno creato dei mostri.
N.T.

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Vinitaly 2009, the tips of the master Guido Invernizzi

Guido Invernizzi , vulcanico sommelier della sezione Ais di Novara, ci guida anche quest'anno alla scoperta di alcuni tesori nascosti tra i padiglioni del Vinitaly.
Vini bersene be as good as he himself admitted off camera, whole trucks and tankers. After having had the chance to follow some of his classes during the course Ais am absolutely convinced that with a little 'training to direct the good doctor Lecco home television could become an animal not be replicated. But totally wasted on unnecessary sections from the end of Tg, birthing and cloying as the various " Taste" and the like.
NT

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Among surprises and confirmations, Vinitaly is also straddle the crisis

We could elect a symbol of the giant Vinitaly 2009 Straddle a Dutch-made machine looming large in the center of the square between the halls of Puglia and Tuscany. It seems straight from the Terminator to Straddle vineyards and crisis. Crisis? The world of wine together at the annual meeting in Verona the most important wine event in the world appears to have a perfect shape, immune from the woes of the world economy. At least, that's the impression I had in my usual two days, Thursday and Friday, in the trade.
But you know, these events are made to, precisely, to show off though, and despite everything. To give us smiles galore, and be of great complimentoni distribute generous handshakes on the right and left. And the crisis? There. Come, perhaps. The long wave of the tsunami broke bank in America has yet to overwhelm the European wine sector, especially the Italian and French, the two main exporters of wine in the world. However, the impression is that the much dreaded "long wave" will come, if it comes, just to wet your toes to our producers. Whether you are a strong reputation built over years and years of serious work, selections in the vineyard of the toughest ever, with an excellent wine cellar techniques, investment sull'enoturismo that bode well.

That said, we talk about wine. I have found that ' Asprinio di Aversa di Grotta del Sole fa capottare in veranda da tanto che è buono, così come il loro Gragnano sorrentino, uno stupefacente rosso frizzante degno del miglior Lambrusco padano. Ho avuto la conferma che di Lugana del Garda me ne berrei intere autocisterne, non a caso il vitigno è parente strettissimo del mio amato Verdicchio marchigiano. Così come il Sauvignon del Veneto e il Gewurztraminer altoatesino mi fanno godere come un matto. Non posso dire altrettanto delle mediaticamente pompatissime bollicine Docg di una nota azienda dell'Oltrepo che in sala stampa ha scatenato una sadicissima caccia alla puzza tra me e un paio di colleghi. Alla fine ha vinto il sentore di sudore secco di ascella di vignaiolo con maglia di lana . Quando ci si mette, il pinot nero sa essere ancor più capriccioso e fetente dei giornalisti!
Ho scoperto quanto sono buoni tutti i nebbiolo del Piemonte minore, soprattutto quelli di Boca , Lessona e Carema .
Mi sono illuso di essere al cospetto del mitico Giovanni Cherchi , icona della vitivinicoltura di Gallura e autore di un Vermentino e di un Cagnulari assolutamente impareggiabili. E invece era un suo parente affiancato dai nipoti del titolare, intagliati in lineamenti duri e cortesi alla Gianfranco Zola .
Ho avuto la conferma che l' Aglianico if played with the great Barolo for the elite of Italy's best red, and then Europe, then the world.
I also had to change my mind on Chianti Classico, which I always thought "stuff for Americans" and that, however, can still be a big thank you to some producers faithful lineage traditions, such as Conte Sebastiano Capponi , or Enotecnici Smart and modern Paolo de Marchi of Islands and Olena , which I appreciated much more than the straightforward Chianti Classico 2006 than the blasonatissimo supertuscan Cepparello , vintage 2005.
But more than anything, I had confirmation that often le soprese migliori e gli aneddoti più interessanti è facile che arrivino proprio dagli stand meno frequentati dai lettori di guide, riviste e annuari vari. Metti il vino di San Colombano , per esempio. Il cosiddetto "vin de Milan", che in realtà è più piacentino che meneghino. Lo fanno una quindicina di aziende su una collina a sud di Lodi, a circa 50 km da Milano, presso il confine con l'Emilia. Indimenticabile, per esempio, il Franco Riccardi dell'azienda Nettare dei Santi , sorta di delizioso ed economico (solo 8 euro!) "Sforzato" o "Amarone", vedete un po' voi, da appassimento di uve merlot e cabernet sauvignon. Davvero un vino della madunina !
Nicola Taffuri